TT 520 
.H43 

Copy 1 onsr 



•^ IlSrS'XiES'CrCTIOIbT c^ 



. LEOLA^M.^HEAD'S^ 

Teaching System of Cutting. 




PERFECTED SEPT. 30, 1887. 

Entered according to the Act of" Congress in the year i888, by Miss Leola M. Head 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress Washington, D. C. 

30 



DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING, 

The figure must be the same that it will be when the gariiieiit 
is worn: standing erect throughout the process of measuring; 
always place a belt or Strip around the bottom of the waist to 
get the exact length; then measure as follows: 

1st. Bust, close (not tight) around the body, under the arms, 
touching the Shoulder blades, and above the full part of the 
bust. 

2nd. Tight around the Avaist (not over belts, &c.) 

3rd. From armpit to the natural waist. 

4:th. From neck, down the back to waist. 

These four measures will fit the body of any garment, by 
adding one inch to the bust measure for male. 

SLEEVE. 

1st. Around the arm, where the sleeA^e sews to the body, the 
exact size desired, after seams are taken. 

2nd. From Shoulder to base of thumb. 

3rd. Around the wrist so that the tape will sli}) over the 
hand. 

PANTS. 

1st. Outside seam, from natural waist over hi]) to b(>ttom of 
Shoe heel. 

2nd. Inside seam, from end of thumb to collar button (arm 
extended level with the Shoulder.) 

3rd. Knee, from elbow to collar button, (inside of arm) or 
around the knee the size desired. 

4th. Waist, over waist-band, smoothly: not tight. 

KNEE PANTS. 

Measure from waist-band, down the length you wish the 
waist to be; then measure the outside seam, fi-om top of Avaist- 
band, to length desired; and around the AA^iist and knee. 



ITEMS OK IIVLPORTANCE. 

Trim out oarli piocc of the System by the line of edge. 
Punch a liole through eaeh dot on the ditt'erent lines. 

First learn the measurement; then to draft the Front of 
I>as(|ue on i>a|)er. Draw each line over and over, till you 
understand it, before drawing another. 

Notice Fig. 1 and 2, carefully before drawing a line. Learn 
the Basque thoroughly before you undertake any thing else, for 
// is the bas2S of cutting, and most a// other garments are drafted 
like it to the waist line. 

Ci'TTiNc. — Have the goods doubled^ right-sided together, no 
folds or wrinkles in either side. Allow a seam from the pencil 
line, excei)t in the neck, arm's eye, and where the side body is 
cut from the centre back: notch each waist line; and before 
se))arating trace pencil lines, with tracing wheel, or (if not on 
hand) carefully dot on the bottom piece, exactly with, each 
{•articular line, i)oint, or part of top piece, and pencil same way. 

Basting. — Always l)e careful to join the notches oil waist line, 
and baste exactly in pencil lines. To prevent wrinkles across 
the front, hold the Sidebody of back a little full; also hold the 
Shoulder of back a little full, both seams are longer for that 
purpose. Fit the waist lines, and neck, if the arm's eye is to 
trim. 

All 0\ek Gtakments. — Skould be cut 2 Numbers larger; 
then cut away an inch across the top of arm's eye. 

The Measure. — From armpit to waist is liable to be taken 
either too long, or too short, (especially by inexperienced hands, 
or over ill-titting garments;) if it seems too long, or too short, 
when vou measure down the centre back, of linino-; measure the 
form again to ascertain whether the measure was correctly 
taken or not. 

DiFFEKENT SizE Dakts. — Can be easily obtained, by adding 
whatever width desired, to waist line, and after dotting for the 
top, slip the same edge down to waist line, and dot there the 
same as toj), which gives the centre of dart; then place centre of 
width added t<» said dot or dots, and dot the width on waistline. 
Shape from top to dots on waist line, with edge of Dart Rule. 
For large darts, add twice the width of Gore; and for small size, 
tlie wiilth of inside lines on Gore. 

The width and distance apart, of medium size darts, (when 
tlie top is each 2) will be found by jdacing W, and X, on waist 
line, and dotting at each 2: also dot at each cen. Find width 
and distance of Small size by placing Y, and Z, on waist; and 
dotting at each 80; dot at 30s for top also. The toj) of darts can 
l)e raised or lowered, if necessary to tit the form. 

The Tracing Wheel. — Will be mailed to any address on 
iM^ceijtt of 2-') cents, and a 2 cent Stamp. 

Leola M. 1Ii:\o, Haw Uidize, Ala. 



Cf\ ((ii 



BASQUE FRONT. 

Fig. I — Suppose the 
bust to be 33 inches; waist 
23 inches; length from arm 
8 inches; length down the 
back 15 inches. 

Fold under enough for 
[or draw a line allowing] 
"Hem and Lap." Place A 
and H on the edge of fold. 
Dot distinctly at 33, on 
Rule A and B, also through 
the holes on line for neck. 
Draw a line from 33, on 
Rule B, to 33, on Shoulder 
Rule; dot at 33 on ruleC; 
go over this until you under- 
stand it; then place 33, of 
arm's eye to shoulder point, 
touching the dot made at 
33, on rule C, with the edge 
of arm's eye. Draw a line 
from 33, at the shoulder, to 
33, on rule D. Lay the 
Front System aside. Meas- 
ure from arm's eye straight 
down the goods eight 
inches. [Always make a 
cross mark at the length 
from arm, so that you will 
not mistake it for other 
marks.] Place O, on the 
edge in front, on a line with 
the cross mark; draw a line 
from 33, to O; this is called 
zvaist line, and will meet 
around the waist, without 
a dart. All the fullness re- 
quired must be added to 
this line before the side 
seam is shaped; in this two darts and the gore are used. Add twice the 
width of dart, and once the width of gore on waist line; also add once the 
width of gore on arm's eye. Shape the side seam with dart rule; touch the 
dot which adds the width of gore on arm's eye, with the point; and also 
touch the last dot on waist line with the waist-rule edge. See Fig. 3 [on 
cover]. To take up the darts, place O on the edge of fold; have the waist 
rule edge straight across the bottom part of arm's eye; dot at each 2, for the 
top of darts; then place W and X on waist line, and dot at each 2, for the 
width and distance apart on waist line. Shape the darts from top to dots 
on waist line, with point of dart rule; then draw a line from the top of darts 
straight through the centre, and 8 inches below the waist line. Now shape 
each line of darts from waist to centre line at the bottom, with a straight 
edge. Place waist of gore on a line with [or a little above] waist line, 
between the darts and side seam, nearer the darts. Learn this before you 
undertake anything else. 

BASQUE BACK. 




Fig. 5. — Fold under enough for plait, etc., in the centre seam — or draw a 
line allowing the same. Place the back centre line on the fold. Draw a 




line from J to K, from K to 33, on the shoulder 
rule, and dot at 33, on first and second rules below 
the shoulder. Shape arm's eye with M, to dot 
made in second rule, L to shoulder. Measure 
from arm's eye straigth down the goods 8 inches 
[make a cross mark], and from neck down centre 
seam 15 inches Place R to centre length, touch- 
ing the cross mark with line to S, and draw a line 
from 23 to R. Shape from arm's eye to waist 
line, with line from S to R. Place R to the dot 
of first rule, and curve the side-body with line to 
T. Let the centre back be as narrow as you 
like. After learning to draft this, cut it as shown 
in Fig. 6. 

Cut o(V the plait on waist line, leave seams 



as they are dotted, cut out 
side-body in the lines, set it 
out far enough from where 
it was cut, to give a seam 
on the rounding side, and as 
much farther as may be rc- 
([uired for plaits or fullness. 
Place the waist of side-body 
on a line with waist of cen- 
tre back. First draw a line 
on each side of side body, 
tlu-n add I inch seam on the 
rounding side, and one inch 
on the other. Shape the 
skirt from waist with point 
of dart rule. Let the full- 
ness be in accordance with 
size and style, and as many 
plaits as desired — or shape 
the skirt without a plait. 

Fig. 7. — Shows that there 
is no change in a Polouaisv 
except that the skirt is 
fuller and longer. Loop 
and shape as styles predict. 
Gabrielle, Polonaise, etc., 
are the same as Basque to 
the waist. The skirts are 
made fuller and longei" 
Ali- garments that should 
hang even at the bottom 




IFilii 




Po© 1( 




23 



8h 



must be measured the same length from the 
ivaist line down all around, or add 3, 3, or 4 
inches in the back for extra wear. 

Fig. 4. — Shows a Skirt 37 inches in length, 
and even. 

Fig. 3 — Shows how to get the Skirt of 
Polonaise correct, the more it is to be plaited 
up on the sides, the less it slopes. To get the 
width, measure across where you wish the 
bottom to be, after it is plaited up, as top line; 
get the length desired on the side, add to it the 
plaits, as bottom line, making width and length 
meet as shown at T. Give the bottom any 
shape that is desired. 

Fig 8. — Fui.l Waist. — As Basque to waist 
line, add one dart for fullness: cut a seam above 
waist line, and gather waist to waist No. on 
waist Rule. 

Fig. 9. — Shows the back to Fig. 8, with a 
line drawn from neck to waist; allowing the 



fullness between the Shoulders as well 
as on the waist. It is then drafted like 
Basque, with the side body omitted. Cut 
a seam above the waist line, and gather 
waist to waist No. on Back waist Rule. 

Fig. 10. — Plain Night Dress — Waist 
is like Fig. 9, w'th 2 inches added to 
waist line on the side. You can let the 
centre seam curve in at the waist, or have 
the centre on a fold of goods. Line the 
top, or put a yoke on the top side 
trimmed to taste. The front can be 
drafted as Basque with two darts added 
for fullness, both can be left loose or one 
taken up. 

Fig ii. — Jacket With One Dart. — 
Draw a line allowing "Hem and Lap," 
at the neck, and about 4 inches at the 
waist. Draft as Basque. Add the width 
of Gore on waist line. Dot at 35, for top 
of dart, slip the bottom edge of Top of 
Darts down to waist line, and dot at 35, 
which gives the centre of dart; get the 
width by width of Gore, and Shape as 
Basque. Cut the front edge as dotted 
line, allowing hem and lap from the line 
to waist; then Slope out, to give the 
fullness of Skirt. (This will also be nice 
for large hips, rounding Shoulders, or 
any form that is liable to wrinkle across 
the front, or fail to come together at the 
bottom.) Clip the edge of hem till it will 
hold smoothly by stretching. 




6 




Fig 12. — Chemise 
With Square Neck 
AND Gathers. — Draw 
^ine allowing 2 inches at 
the neck, and 4 at the 
waist. Place H, and A, 
on said line, and draft 
as Basque omitting the 
darts: add 2 inches, on 
waist line. Shape arm's 
eye with Shirt arm's eye, 
34 of Rule M, to — or 
above the dot at 33, on 
Rule D. Cut the neck 
as low as wanted, and in 
any Shape desired. You 
can Shape a Sleeve onto 
the arm's eye — or give it 
any Shape. After it is 
drafted, the goods can be 
folded on the Shoulder 
to prevent a seam. 



Fig. 13 — Apron with Bin to 
Fasten ox the Back. — To waist 
as Basque, join Shoulder of back 
to front; then draw a line by 
neck, and down centre line. Now 
Shape the bib over this form, 
according to taste, Shape from T 
to waist with Top of Sleeve; cut 
the Skirt i or 2 inches above waist 
line, giving it a dozvmvard cuwe: 
have the width, length, and shape 
according to taste. First, get the 
form of Basque so that it will Ht; 
then Shape any Style. 








T 



F, 






V 



A 



CHILDREN'S GARMENTS, 

Fig. 14. — Double Breast 
Ci-OAK — Bust 30 inches, waist 
24, Length S. Fold a hem; 
then fold ^ the width of double; 
after which draft as Basque, 
allowing once the width of 
Dart for looseness. Cut the 
neck before it is unfolded; then 
each side will have the same 
Shape. Have the double only 
on the Side that laps over; let 
the other side come to Centre 
Line. To do that, fold hem 
on bottom side, hem and ^ 
double on top side, and place 
the right Sides together, re-' 
membering that which ever 
piece is placed top. will fit the 
right side; let the edges of 
folds come together down the 
Centre Line. 




'1 ® a a i) c^ a 




8 

Fig. 15. — Same us 14, with 2 darts 
taken up, ami the fold for douhle breast 
cut otV from the hottom to the top of 
darts, lea\ ing hem and lap, on center 
hne. Dot at each 30 for top of darts; 
and if the width of inside hues on Gore 
was added, place Y and Z on waist 
line, and dot at each 30, for width, and 
distance apart on waist line. 



ADD TO 
ARMS EYE AS 
SHOWN BY 
LINES 



Fig 16. — Gabrielle ok any Waist 
WITH Dart. — Bust 24 inches. Waist 22, 
Length 6. Same as Basque to waist; add 
once the width of Dart; place point of 
Dart to the deepest curve in arm's eye: 
have the waist Ride edge, as near the 
front as the dart should be; draw a line 
by front edge; slip Dart back half its 
width, and draw the other line of dart by 
same edge. Cut this dart out, notching 
the waist. Leave a good seam in arm's 
eye of side body, where it sews to front, 






sloping to line at the side, so 
that it will Ht the front after 
the dart is cut out. 

Fig. 17. — Pi-ain Waist 
With out Dart. — Shape 
from arm to waist straight; cut 
a seam below waist line. 

Fig. 18. Back to 17. — Add 
one inch on waist line; cut a 
seam below waist line; and add 
"Plem and Lap" to centre line. 

Fig's 19, 20. 21, 22 and 23. — 
Guilds Waist with Curved 
Seams in back and front, 

WITHOUT seam under THE 

Ar.ms. — Curve Fig. 19, with V, 
(Coat Collar.) Cut in each line 




except waist of side piece, cut it a seam 
above the line at. the side, sloping to line. 
Fig, 20, is as Basque with one inch 
added on waist line. Cut it as 19. {I'J 
and 20 should be on paper.) Join the side 
pieces together without seam under the 
arms as Fig. 22, and cut the go ods, allow- 
ing seams as dotted lines indicate. Cut 
23, by centre pattern of 20, allowing 
seams, hem, and lap. 21 can b^ tucked, 
puffed, or trimmed to taste. Fold the 
goods in the centre, and cut 21 by pattern 
19, allowing scams as they are dotted. 
Sew any style skirt to this waist. For an 
Apron, leave a skirt on 21, and 23, with- 
out seam, gathering it to 22, (or gather 
Skirt to 22 and 23.) Cut the neck in any 
fancy style. 

Fig. 24. — Aprons, S(^uare. Round- 
ing, V Shape, and high in the neck. — 
Draw a line from the edge (which should 
be on a fold of the goods) 3 inches below 
the neck, sloping to 3 inches from the fold, 
at the bottom of length. Draft as Basque 
with one or two inches added on waist line. 
Cut the neck to taste; and if left sleeveless, 
cut an inch off the shoulder. 



Fig. 25. — Back to 24 — Add hem and lap; draft as 
Basque omitting side body. Measure from waist 
line up to where the neck is cut in 24, and cut the 
back the same length above the waist line; if extra 
loose add one inch on waist line. • 



Fig 26. — Chemise 
with RoijND Neck. — 
Have the goods on 
fold in the centre; draw 
a line as in 24, and 
draft as Fig 12. Shape 
the neck with Top of 
Sleeve or Side Body 
line. Cut an inch oft' 
of the shouldei", and 
cut in the shoulder 
line, so that the arm's 
eve \vill not be too 
'arge. Face arm's eye, 
and neck with a nar- 
row bias strip, as dot- 
ted lines indicate. 

Fig. 27. — Skirt with 
OUT Seam. — Have the 
front on a fold, either 
', across, or length wise 
' the goods. First curve 
the top, (the deeper the 
curve, the fuller the 





10 




for the back pari; add to 
the back finches. Curve 
the waist of front down- 
ward, and the back up- 
ward, with Point of Dai I 

Shape from Line 26, to 
dot below top Hne, with 
Point of Dart; also shape 
from 26, of back part; to 
top with Point of Dart. 

Measure across at the 
Knee 6^ inches; now 
shape from Line 26, of 
back and front to 6^, witli 
Point of Dart. There is 
no particular measure for 
length of waist, as any 
No. from 7 to 1 1 inches 
will answer, y being small 
and 1 1 extra large, while 
10, is usually used for 
Ladies. 



skirt will he.) and let it be 
the same width as that of 
the body. Shape the back 
straight from top to width 
desired at the Bottom. 
Measure from top down as 
from I to 8. and shape 
accordingly. This will be 
suitable for Aprons, and 
small dresses. If necessary 
set gores on the back. 

Fig. 28 — Drawers. — Un- 
derstand Pants first. Meas- 
ure around the waist, and 
from waist down to the 
length desired; also around 
the bottom. Suppose the 
waist to be 24 in. Length 
26 in. Bottom 13 in. Fold 
goods on the side; draw 
a line straight across the 
goods, 3 inches below the 
top; measure from f//is line 
down the fold 26 inches; 
also dot at 9 inches, from top 
and place L to said dot; 
draw a line from 26 of front 
Rule for Payzts I; to also 
dot at 26 on back Rule for 
Pants, (use two or four Nos. 
over waist measure in these 
Roles.) Place O, on top 
line, dot at 24, on waist 
Rule, and then dot i^ inches 
below the line at said dot 
for the front part, and 2 in. 
(more or less) above the line 




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11 





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Line 26 




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MEN'S CLOTHING. 



Fi 



^. 29 — Vest Front. — Bust 36 in. waist 
30 in. Length from ann 10 in. Draw a 
line allowing lap. Draft as Basque; after 
placing Arm's eye, dot through the holes 
on Vest Arm's eye to No. at E nearest 
to bust No., E being one inch below D, 
slip the measure one inch above the arm- 
eye line, to get the length to waist; draw 
waist line from 30, to O. Place the Point 
of Dart 2 inches above the arm's eye to 
make the side straight. Place G, on the 
shoulder ^, or |- inch from the neck; draw 
the edge at Button-hole, to the edge of 
goods; from G, to H, shape collar for the 
back. Measure from waist line down, 2 
inches on the side, and 3, in front; shape 
front corners, and bottom to taste. Add 
shoulder seams as shown by dotted lines,. 
(Back and front.) 



Fig. 30 — Vest Back 
— Fold the goods to 
prevent centre seam; 
draw a line allowing 
2 inches fullness at 
the waist, none at the 
neck; draft as Bas- 
que, omitting the side 
body. Place the No. 
of Rule M. corres- 
ponding with bust, 
one inch below the 
arm's eye, drawing 
the edge of Shirt 
Arm's eye, on the 
shoulder line, to make 
it the length of the 
front. 




;+lO 



12 




Fig. 31. — Coat Front. — Draw 
a line allowing 3 inches from the 
edge at the top, none at the bot- 
tom. Dot the neck, thaw the 
shoulder, dot at 36, on Rule C, 
and place the Arm's eye as for 
Basque; then dot through the 
holes of Coat Arm's eye, also dot 
at 34 on Rule D, which is 2 Nos. 
less than the bust. Now add 
one inch to the shoulder line in 
Arm's eye. and place 36 of Arm's 
eye to the added part on the 
shoulder, touching the dot of 
Rule C, with edge of .Vrm's eve; 
then draw a line from shoulder, 
by edge of Arm's eye to dots of 
Coat Arm eve, follow dots to the 
one of Rule 1). Measure from 
Arm's eye straight down ten 
inches; draw waist line on a 
thread with the length mark. 

Shape the neck with R, taking 
an inch ofl'of the shoulder; shape 
the lapel and corners according 
to taste. To make the Rack 



narrow, add 2 seams on the! side of front. If the' 

gore as indicated by dotted line, is desired, dot at J 

bust No. on Rule D, and draw a line from Arm's} 

eye to the top of pocket; cut in this line, and sew it,' 

as a seam, open it and press well. I 

I 

^•g- 3--— Coat Back.— Draw a line allowing | 

seam; and plait if desired. Draft as Basque, omit-j 

ting side body; have the skirt ^ inch narrower at the! 

bottom, than on waist line; add no seam on the side,; 

as 3 were added on the front. ! 

I 

^"'g* 3.3-— Dress Coat.— The same as 31, to waist; 

Add one inch on waist line, and point the front one; 

inch below the waist line, as dotted line indicates.; 

Shape the front with Dart. • 




13 



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3 



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5) (c= 




Fig-. 34. — Back to 33. — The same as Basque. Cut the side body out, cut 
in the Hue, on the rounding side and waist; add two seams on the other side 
and in Arm's eye. Leave a small plait like on each side of centre back at 
the waist. 

Fig. 35. — Skirt to 33 and 34. — Measure across the waist of front and 
Side body, (Suppose it to be 15 inches; and length 10.) Draw a line straight 
across the goods, one inch below the top. Cut one inch above this line in 
front, touching // at 15, as shown by dotted line; slant upward two inches, 
for plait; and gore the back edge like unto a vSkirt Gore. Measure from top 
line down 10 inches, and cut the bottom by that; shape corner to taste. 

Sezv front, side body, and centre back together, and let the side body come 
a seam below the waist line of centre back, as shown in Fig. 36. Then fold 
under the plait on the back edge of skirt, and baste it to waist of front and 
side body; beginning at the seam where side body sews to centre back, 
holding Skirt a little full fl-// the way. Hem under all of Skirt that comes 
over at the front, and baste the plait, on the Skirt of centre back; then try 
it on to see if it is too full. You can point the waist 2 inches, and cut the 
Skirt straight across the top — or point the waist 3 inches, and cut the Skirt 



14 



one inch shorter in front; it 
can be cut in any cut away 
style as shown in Finj. 37. 
Of course the Diagrams do 
not set exactly as the gar- 
ments will, the fullness ot 
skirt cannot he shown. 

■^'o- 3^'" ^I'l'tT. — Fold 
the goods in the centre ot 
vA idih desired. Draw a line 
rom the fold at the neck, 
allo\\ing2 inches from the 
told at the waist; draft as 
Basque, with half the width 
of Dart on waist, except the 
Arm's eye, dot at bust M — 
in Rule D; then place same 
No. of Rule M , to said dot, 
touching the shoulder line, 
v\ ith line to X. Cut the 
neck in, or a little belQw the 
ine. Cut the back by the 
front except the neck, which 
can be shaped with \', R, 
or anything to give it a 

downward curve of :^ of an inch. The Ami's e\ e of back can be cut as 

dotted line. 

^'g- 39- — Shirt with Yoke. First cut a paper pattern to waist, as 3S; 
then cut a paper Yoke for the back, as line 2, cut a notch on front pattein, at 
each end of line 2, so that you can tell how high the bottom part must come; 
then cut a yoke oft'of the front pattern as line i. Do not let tins yoke come 






15 

more than ^ down the neck, cut it straight 
across the pattern. Join the shoulder of 
this to the back without seat?i (as line 5, 
in 40;) which gives the yoke pattern. 
Cut the front b}' pattern 39, allowing i .V 
inches for gathers as dotted line 4, and a 
seam where the yoke was cut off; then 
fold the patterns by notches, as line 3, and 
cut the back as the front, allowing the 



fullness in the centre as dotted line 3. 
Read this carefully so that you 
understand it. It simply means to 
cut a pattern; then to cut part of the 
yoke off of the front, and part off of 
the back, and join the shoulder edo'cs 
togetlier. 

[Fig. 41 — Pants Front. — Suppose 
the outside seam to be 44 inches- 
Inside seam 34, Waist 36, Knee 17. 
First take off an inch at the top for 
the pocket, shape it to the edge 
with the point of Dart; then mea- 
sure from the top of the goods 
straight down the edge 44 inches, 
which is the length of outside seam; 
now measure from the bottom of 
outside length, up on the same edge 
34 inches, which is the inside length; 
dot this distinctly, and place I, to 




16 




the (lot have the Rule for front of Pants straight across the goods. Draw a 
hne from I, to 36 on Front Rule, which is called Line 11. Measure from 
T.ine II straight downward 34 inches; then measure from the bottom up, on 
inside and o'^utside seams 17 inches, which is half of the inside length, and 
is the place for the Knee line. Draw a line ;Across the knee, by the dots, S 
inches in length, which leaves 9 inches of knee measure for the back. 
Measure 7 inches across the bottom, which is one inch less than across the 
knee. Shape inside seam from Line 11, to knee, with Point of Dart to Line 
M- and strai<dit from there to bottom; then across the bottom m a slight 
umvird curN^e Place P, to top of pocket; draw a line straight across trom 1 
,0 -^r^'on Front Rule for Pants. Place 34 of Ride M to Line 11, and shape to top 



17 
PANTS BACK. 

Fig. 43. — First measure down the 
side 3, or 4 inches as shown by T; 
then measure from T, straight down 
the edge 44 inches, and up on the 
same edge 34; also 17 for the Knee' 
To curve this edge, with a 3 inch 
curve at the bottom, dot 3 inches 
from the edge at the Knee, 2| half 
way from Knee to bottom, 2 at the 
top of inside length, and one at T. 
To give a 2 inch curve, dot 2 inches 
from edge at Knee, and one at top 
of inside length; then shape to the 
edge at T. Curve the bottom with 
Sidebody, then shape to top by 
dots, with a straight edge. 

Place I, on the curved line at the 
top of inside length, have the top 
edge straight across the goods. Dot 
at 36 on Back Rule; then draw a 
line from I, by top edge even with 
dot on bottom edge, this line is 
called Line IJ/.. Measure from Line 
14, straight downward 34 inches, 
and up from the bottom, or down 
from Line 14, 17 inches for the 
Knee. Draw a line across the 
Knee, from the curved line, and by 
the dots, 9 in. in length. Measure 
across half way from Knee to bot- 
tom 9 inches. Shape inside seam 
from dot one inch below Line 14 to 
knee, as front, straight from knee halfway to bottom; then slope out an inch 
at the bottom, or according to taste. Shape across the bottom in a down- 
ward curve, with Point of Dart. Measure waist of front as dotted line in 41; 
then measure the back as dotted line in 42; let the back be the length of 
front and half again, that is if front be 10 inches, let back be 15. Place the 
Point of Dart to T, and meet 36 on Back Waist Rule with the length at L, 
in cut. Draw the waist line from 36, to (T in cut) Point of Dart; then shape 
from dot below Line 14, to waist, with waist No. of Rule Q_ to dot below 
Line 14. Face of chart may be down. 

Fig. 43. — Drawers. — First fold the goods in the centre; then measure 
from the top of goods downward 3 inches as T; now measure the full length 
from T down the edge as 44, and up as 34. Place I at the top of inside 
length and draw a line from I to 37, which is one No. over waist No.; then 
dot at 37 on Back Rule; finish as pants, except the Knee is measured half 
the width, and the bottom is cut straight across, and is 4, or 5 inches shorter 
than the measure. Cut the waist 3 inches below waist line in front, 2 on the 
side, and one in the back. Cut waist band 2^ inches broad in front, i^ on 
the side and i:^ in the back. 





18 

Fig. 44 — Boys Knee Pants. — 
Suppose from waist down to bot- 
tom part of hip, length of waist 
to be 5 inches. From where the 
top of waist band should be to 
the length desired, is i6 inches. 
Waist 24 inches. 

Measure from top down 16 
inches; also 5 inches. Draw a 
line from the 5 inches straight 
across by Front Rule for Pants, 
to 24. Call this Line 8. h from 
16 leaves 11. Measure from Line 
8 down II inches, and across the 
bottom 5^. Shape from Line 8, 
to 5^ with Point of Dart; finish 
as 41. 

Fig. 45. — Back to 44. — Measure from the top downward 2 inches; then 
draw a line of 16 inches, sloping an inch more or less, from the edge at the 
bottom. Measure from where the 2 inches, was dotted, down on the same 
edge, 5 inches; then place I, to that length and dot at 24 on bottom edge; 
also draw a line by top edge. Measure from this line down 11 inches, and 
across the bottom 6^ inches. Shape inside seam with Point of Dart to dot 
below Line 10; and across the bottom straight. Finish as 42. 

SLEEVES. 

Fig. 46. — Sleeve. — Suppose the top is 15 inches. Length 20 inches. 
Wrist 9 inches. First draw a line across one inch from the top, as i. 2nd. 
Measure from said line down the edge 3 inches. 3rd. Place 15 of Top of 
Sleeve to the 3 inches below the line, and 15 near T, on the line. Line from 
15, to 15. 4th. Measure from the 15 on the line, straight downward 20 
inches. 5th. Draw a line straight across from length to edge. 6th. Meas- 
ure from length down 2 inches. 7th. Place T, to the crosswise line at the 
edge, touching the 2 inches below length, with line to R; draw a line from 
wri^t measure to T. 8th. Dot one inch from the line of length, at the elbow, 
on the outside, i. e. a little over half way from top to wrist, and dot i^ inches 
from the inside edge, at the elbow. 9th. Place elbow edge, which will be 
found on line from S, to R, to outside elbow dot, and shape to top with line 
to R. Turn chart face down elbow to dot, and shape to wrist line, with same 
edge. Slip S, to top of inside, and shape to dot with line to R, (face of chart 
still down;) Slip R, to the edge at the wrist, and shape to elbow. Cut this 
the top side out in the lines. 

Fig. 47. — Bottom Side to 46. — First curve front edge by top piece, cut a 
notch at the top and wrist; slip top piece over the bottom as dotted line 
indicates, keep the notch at wrist, even with the edge across the wrist of top 
piece, and cut by it to the top. Curve the top downward with R; then 
curve from top to elbow with line from S, to R. 



19 





Fig. 48. — Sleeve with Back Edge of Top Straight. — First cut pat- 
terns as 46 and 47; then cut 3 inches more or less oft' of the bottom piece, at 
the top, sloping to the edge at the elbow, and i:^ or 2 inches at the wrist, 
sloping to edge at elbow, as shown by dotted lines. Give the bottom a 
proper rounding curve at the elbow. Join what was cut from bottom piece, 
to top piece, with out seam; make the edge straight, if the pieces do not 
exactly do so. Cut a notch where what was cut from the bottom was joined 
to the top; set this notch against the sidebody seam, or a little above it. 

Coat Sleeves are cut as 46 and 47, except the inside seam curves in only 
I inch, and the outside of bottom piece curves very little from elbow to top. 

Fig. 49. — Shirt vSleeve with Cuff. — Fold the goods either straight, or 
bias. Measure down the fold, the whole length of sleeve, and straight across 
the wrist, the width desired. Get the width of top by arm's eye; add i, or 2 
inches fullness. Curve the under edge with bust No. of Q^, to the line that 
shapes the top. Dart Rule Point will shape the top. 



20 



Fig. 50. — S h i r t ; 
Sleeve with Cufl'cut », 
to it. Same as 49, 
with Cuff' added to 
the length, and shap- 
ed without srathers. 



@M [F@Ikl2) 

Fat 4 





O 



Figs. 51 and ^2. — Cape with Imitation Sleeve Gathered to the 
Shoulder. — First cut a yoke pattern, and place the bottom edges on a 
straight line as L, joining arm's eye together. Draw a line across, as 2, so 
that you can see how much to cut off of the front shoulder, and add to the 
back. Cut off as dotted line in 51, and add to as dotted line in 52. Shape 
sleeve over line 2, as dotted line. You can join shoulder points, and omit the 
sleeve, by taking out a square piece between the shoulder lines. 

Fig. 53. — Form for Round 
Shoulders. — Take off as 
dotted I, and add to should- 
er as dotted line 2; take off 
as dotted line 3, 4, 5, 6 and 
7. In order to allow this 
takeup, add f of an inch to 
the waist line. You first 
measure down the centre; 
then draw the waist line 
straight across by 
that length. After 
drawing the side 
body, measure from 
arm's eye down, the 
length of waist, and 
draw waist of side 
body as dotted line 
8. The less round- 
ing the form, the 
less you take up. 

It would be well 
to take up all tight 
tjarments as line 7. 




21 




Fig. 54. — Front 
for round Shoul- 
ders. — Take ofl' 
an inch at the 
neck as hne 2, 
with Shoulder 
Rule. Dot one 
inch below the 
neck, and shape 
as dotted line 4. 
In basting the 
darts, stop the 
waist one stitch 
above the waist 
line. 

Fig. 54. — Also shows the form for sharp shoulders. Add to the neck and 
shoulders as line i and 3. If the waist is longer in front than on the side, 
measure down the centre, and draw waist line; then measure down the side, 
and draw waist line from dart to side as dotted line, before taking up the gore. 

Some forms will require a seam added in the neck; while others will 
require a seam cut below the dots; therefore the cutter must exercise their 
own judgement. 

Chemise and Gown Yokes. — Vary so that it would be impossible to 
give an exact form for each one; yet I can give a form by which you can cut 
any style. You first cut a pattern, in any shape desired; then get the middle 
of the piece below the yoke, and place it on the goods so that there will be 
room to add gathers on each side. Dot at the centre and each edge of the 
piece that was cut from the yoke; then add what you wish to be gathered in, 
to the edges, on a line with your first dots, and shape from the last to centre 

dot with the same 
edge that shaped 
the yoke. See Fig. 
55. The dotted line 
touching the two 
first and centre dots 
shows the shape of 
the piece that was 
cut from the yoke. 
Notch the centre of 
yoke and at the 
centre dot; then fit 
the notches togeth- 
er. Dotted line 3, 
shows the gathers 
added for the bot- 
tom of yoke, and 
dotted line 3, shows 
the arm's eye, and 
side. 




22 



Fo( 






8 



16 



8 



8 



Fig. 36. — Front Gore of 
Skirt. — First gore as line i ; 
then shape as clotted line; 
and then measure from top 
down the same length, in 
front, and on the side. 

FiG. 57. — Side Gore. — The 
same as front except the 
front-edge is not on a fold 
of the goods. For medium 
size take out an inch on 
the front edges. For extra 
length in the back, add to 
length, as 34^; then add to 
the top of back breadth. 

Always curve the top of 
front, and side-gore, before 
seaming up the Skirt. 

Always cut, never tear goods for Skirt. Add seam on pants if desired 
loose, and if extra tight cut all the line off'. To prevent the outside-seam 
twisting carefully notch the crosswise lines on each edge, and before basting, 
stretch the bottom part of front to fit the curve of the back, and press it with 
an iron; then baste, carefully fitting each dot. 

Fig. 58. — Bonnet Top. — Measure from jaw to jaw, over crown of head, 
and draw a line of that length, as 16; then draw 3, crosswise lines half that 
length, as 8s. Add 2 inches more or less, to centre line, and add the same 
to each end of length on front edge; then shape from centre to said added 
part, with point of Dart, and across to line 16, with a straight edge. 

Crown. — Draw two crosswise lines of 8 inches, 4 inches apart; then draw 
one lengthwise line of 8, through the middle of crosswise lines. Shape from 
line at the top, to top cross line, with Sidebody; then slope inward i:^ inches* 
(more or less.) After stitching this, if it is too large trim it. It should be 
held full. For loose crown, add 3 inches more or less, to each line, and shape 
same way. Add any style Skirt. 



i 8 


8 '-■., 


\ 8 


■ 




23 



The rule for Pants and the cuts are given in order to teach 
those wko cannot receive personal instructions; they show what 
each line is for, but the following Rule will iit all tbrnis and 
should be used as a test, and for knee pants. 

Omit the "Inside length;" and get the length of hip as for 
knee pants. 

For men 11 inches is usually used, though the length will 
be from 10 to 14 inches, 10 in this. Measure down the edge 
43 inches and dot at 10; then place the tape one foot from the 
edge, and dot again at 10 and 43. Now get the length from 10 
to 43, and fold it to get the place for Knee, &c. 

Cut the front out, and place it on the goods for back, leav- 
ing enough for curve on the edge, and enough for extra length 
at the top. 

Curve the outside seam according to taste; notch the edge 
by the crosswise lines of front; add one inch from front, at the 
knee, on the inside seam; then place I to the notch of back, 
front edge on Line 11, and dot at Waist JS'o. — or ^ of hip with 
4 inches added. Line 11 should be J of hip measure with one 
inch added; thus 40 inches hip; 10 is ^ and one inch added is 11; 
then add to 11, 3 inches and it gives Line 14 or the back width. 

Should the garment wrinkle across the back of neck, add to 
shoulder as dotted line in Fig, 53; this may often be necessary, 
also add to the front, though not as much as is shown in Fig. 54. 

Carefully view the neck and shoulders of the form before 
cutting a tight garment, to ascertain whether to take from or 
add to neck, or shoulder. 

The back of the neck is often cut straio-ht across. 
For loose and comfortable arm's eye, use two or four jN'os. 
over bust No. of arm's eye to the shoulder. 



24 

Abbeville, Ala., August 14, 1S88. 
Miss Leola M. Head, 

Haw Ridge, Ala. 
Dear Leola : 

I must write to compliment you on your Perfected Chart, it is 
all a lady could wish for, and does every thing you claim for it. When we 
were standing beside the silent form of your darling mother after I had 
shrouded her, you said "I don't know what I shall do without her she 
always done everything for us." I told you to come to my home often as 
you could, I would learn you to cut and sew, you succeeded beyond my 
fondest hopes, and now it is my pleasure to cut all kinds of garments by a 
Chart invented bv one of my pupils, and to pray to the one who has 
promised to be a friend to the Orphan to continue his blessings of success to 
you, and that many kind ladies may be led to aid you by purchasing your 
valuable Perfected Chart. 

Your Loving Teacher, 

MRS. W. J. LEE. 



Haw Ridge, Ala., August 11, 1S88. 

I cheerfully recommend Miss Leola M. Head's System of cutting) 
and while I believe that the instructions are so plain that any one can under- 
stand them without a personal instructress, I would advise any one to avail 
themselves of the opportunity of taking lessons under the one who invented 
the System, if possible. I have been sewing for the public 30 years and find 
the above named system the best that I have ever used. 

MRS. S. T. KNIGHT. 



I hereby recommend Miss Leola M. Head's Chart to the public. 
As far as my experience extends, I think it the best in use. It is all that it 
claims to be. The more I use it the better I like it. Her instruction book is 
perfect in description. Signed 

MRS. M. W. SMITH, 

Haw Ridge, Ala. 



Haw Ridge, August 4, 18S8. 

This is to Certify, that I am using the Chart or System, invented by 
Miss Leola M. Head", I believe it to be a Perfect System of Cutting, all 
kinds of garments, both Men and Women, I can cut garments by the 
Instruction Book, without her instructions. I believe it to be admirably 
adopted to the cutting of all garments, I furthermore certify that Miss Leola 
M. Head is a competent Instructress in the art of Cutting. 

Signed 
MRS. S. A. BRUNER, 

Haw Ridge, Ala. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



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